There is actually a new law in CR that allows you to pay $100 per person to get an extension to your tourist visa. This law was enacted (no doubt) because the ticos realized that every 3 months their "resident tourists" are leaving their country for 3 days and spending their money somewhere else. Anyway, I thought rather than spend that money for a stamp, why not go somewhere fun instead? So here we are in Nicaragua! Not one of the best decisions I've ever made…
We found a little bed and breakfast that was recommended by other gringos in the touristy beach town of San Juan del Sur. They only charge $28 per room (double occupancy) or $33 if you want a room with AC. I would HIGHLY recommend the AC since it NEVER cools off here! Perhaps you will be fortunate enough to get one that actually works (worst night of my life).
We got up bright and early (4:30) for the long 5 hour drive to the border. I figured we should get there early in case there were any complications in the process of driving across the border. Anyway, we got to Peñas Blancas around 10:00 AM. There is always a huge line of trucks at the border waiting to cross. Fortunately, you do not have to wait in line with the trucks. You just have to drive past them on the wrong side of the highway to get up to the border. No big deal, after all this is Costa Rica.
Once we got up to the immigration building we found a nice young man who was eager to help us. He handed us the six immigrations forms that had to be filled out for each of us. He then pointed to the long line of people waiting to leave the country and offered us the "expedited" service for 5,000 colones per person. This express service included all the normal government fees that must be paid for people leaving the country, including the extra work for getting your car approved to leave the country. Also included were certain other fees that must be paid to the police and immigration officials for the privilege of moving to the front of the line. After considering the options carefully, I decided to spend the extra money, even though it made me a little uncomfortable.
I was then quickly led past the line of waiting tourists, around and through the exit, and right up to the front of the line. Amongst whispers of "what is going on?" and "that guy motioned him up to the front…" the helpful customs agent quickly processed the six passports and I was whisked off to the next building for processing of my car. This is where we ran into some trouble. My helpful guide Sergio asked to see my permission slip for the car to leave the country. Apparently you have to get permission to take your car out of the country. I had no idea!! I was then told that the nearest place to obtain said paperwork was at Liberia. We had just passed through Liberia about an hour before.
So, we got back in the car about 10:30 and drove back to Liberia. The place to get the paperwork done is Banco Costa Rica (BCR). We found the bank without too much difficulty. I went in and asked the security guards where to go. I was directed up stairs. After a short wait in line, I presented my paperwork for the car. They did some typing on a computer then handed me a slip of paper. I was then told to go down stairs and pay 5,300 colones to the cashier. I went down stairs and saw the long line of people waiting for the cashiers. I fortunately took the time to ask a security guard if this was the right line to wait in. He told me that it was, but then mentioned I could walk across the street, pay a little more, and get the same form much quicker. Not wanting to make this process longer than it already was, I headed across the street. paid someone 7,000 colones, was given a form on a slip of paper and was directed to go back to the room where I started. Back in the bank, the security guard gave the thumbs up sign (no doubt excited for the commission he probably gets for directing people across the street). After another short wait in line I obtained the needed permission slip.
Since it was now around lunch time, and we had been in the car for around seven hours, we decided to get some lunch.
We got back to the border around 2:00 PM, drove past the seemingly endless line of trucks. Got in touch with Sergio, finished up the process with the car and were directed over to the Nicaraguan side with the advice of "only talk to the police, don't trust the Nicaraguans." The first hurdle on the Nicaraguan side is pay $4.00 to have your car sprayed with "who knows what." We then drove up to the immigration building and were handed six new immigrations forms for the Nicaraguan side. Help was offered, and though it was never really accepted, Excel (yes that is his name) spent the next hour or so running us around from building to building, collecting money, IDs, forms and running back and forth getting everything done. We had to pay $42 ($7 per person) to enter the country, $12 to buy car insurance, $5 for tourism, $20 for "who knows what." Our car was inspected by customs, and should have been inspected by the police, but wasn't. Fortunately, Excel was able to get their signature anyway. We paid Excel 100 cordobas (about $5) for his trouble and we were directed to the exit gate for the final $5 fee ($1 per person, minus Matt who was too young).
That was all there was to it! A simple twenty-nine step process for crossing the border to Nicaragua. I can't wait to go through it in reverse order on Sunday! We arrived at our bed and breakfast around 4:00 PM.